Cast your mind back a few weeks — when the weather was still cool and the cicadas were still quiet. In mid-June, I took my last exploratory trip around the Aegean islands (if you’re late to the party, catch up here: part 1, part 2, part 3, part 4). This voyage of discovery (also, an actual literal voyage) took me around three of the islands of the southern Cyclades: Milos, Amorgos, and Santorini. All three are harsh rocky landscapes, and both Milos and Santorini are in fact volcanic islands formed from the subduction of the African tectonic plate (thank you, Wikipedia). The islands are also known as ‘Dorian’ islands, as, according to myth-history, Dorian Greeks from the mountains of Macedonia settled here in the early-mid first millennium BC. The actual history and archaeology of the situation is much more complicated than that, but just roll with it for now…As usual, here’s my quick summary of the archaeological points of interest on each of the islands visited. So ahoy there and way anchor, all aboard on this voyage through history…
Milos
Milos is most famous archaeologically for its prehistory. Up on the north eastern coast of the island, the settlement of Phylakopi dates back to the third millennium B.C., and has been excavated on and off by the British School at Athens since 1896. Most recent to take his trowel to the soil here is Cambridge’s own Colin Renfrew, a former Disney professor (sic) of the university. Excavations have been extensive, and most of our knowledge about the Early Bronze Age on the Aegean islands is based on the archaeology of this site. Furthermore, the island tells us something about Milos’ various connections with its neighbours in antiquity. This is thanks to the island’s volcanic geology: shiny, black, volcanic obsidian is found all over the island, and this has been exported to neighbours throughout history. If you come across this type of obsidian on a different island, it’s likely its people were in contact with the Melians. Pretty neat, huh?
But if, like me, you’re more history than prehistory, look to the island’s ‘capital’ of Plaka. The museum of the town has a fascinating display of Archaic period inscriptions, written in a variation of the Greek alphabet known as ‘Dorian’. And who doesn’t know the ‘Venus de Milo’, the charming and perfectly ‘armless marble sculpture found here in 1820 (ok, she’s actually in the Louvre, but she comes from here the ancient settlement here…) A bit further down the hill, and one comes across a remarkable set of Christian catacombs. These tombs were used by priests and family groups between the first and fifth centuries A.D., and they form an extensive underground network. Certain wings of the catacombs are open for public tour, and the atmosphere is eerie yet awesome to say the least — particularly when you see some of the centuries old paint and graffiti still visible on tomb walls. Head out and on the way back up the hill veer left to see the ancient Hellenistic theatre — complete with sea view.
Amorgos
Please can I stay here? For a lover of hill-walking and untainted sea views, this island is a paradise. No wonder it was here that three important city states emerged in antiquity: Minoa, Arkesini, and Aigiali. These last two remain relatively unexcavated today, but Minoa is a short hike up from the main port town of Katapola and it still has impressive structural remains. Of particular interest are the thick settlement walls which date from around the sixth century B.C., but right at the top of the hill is a peak sanctuary that goes back much earlier into prehistoric times. The site lacks any sort of signage, so you’ll need a guidebook to get the most out of a visit. But make sure to take your nose out of the book and look around. This site commands views over the bay, out towards neighbouring islands, and across to the other ends of the island where the other settlements would have once stood. A postcard perfect view if I ever saw one.
From Katapola, it’s a short bus ride away to Chora, the island’s main town. The archaeological museum is located here — but be flexible with your itinerary, as the advertised opening times are mere guidelines…Head out of the town to the east to get to Hozoviotissa (gesundheit), a remarkable monastery nestled into the side of the cliff. Your reward for making it here is a tour of the remarkable Orthodox murals, and a small glass of rakoumi from the residents (a Greek anise spirit called raki mixed with warm honey). Other archaeological highlights of the island which require less of a hike to reach include the small but impressive Bronze Age ‘necropolis’ (read: only two chamber tombs survive); and the easy to miss Roman tombs, which overlook the bay.
Santorini
A world away from the quietude of Amorgos, Santorini is rammed full of tourists — almost to breaking point. But stay away from the plastic tat, the British sports bars, and the ‘sunset tours’ (please, there’s no need to applaud a sunset…!), and there are some really quite fascinating archaeological treasures to enjoy on this island. Take Ancient Thira, for example. This settlement dates back to the archaic seventh century B.C., and it sits atop a not insignificant mountain peak. Go by bus out to Kamari (a rather generic beach resort), and it’s a pleasant hour or so hiking up to the site. Be sure to stop halfway up and find the Doric inscriptions in the cave, and also keep a look out for the carved Hellenistic graves either side of the path. If you want to get an even better view of Thira and its topography, carry on up the path even further to get to the peak known as Profitis Ilias (Prophet Elijah). If you’re less keen than me, it’s actually possible to drive up to Profitis Ilias — but where’s the fun in that?!
Santorini is perhaps best known, however, for the site of Akrotiri. The ‘Minoan’ settlement of prehistoric Akrotiri dates to the third/second millennium BC, and it stands in a remarkable state of preservation owing to an eruption of the island’s volcano around the 17th/16th century BC. In essence, this is Greece’s answer to Pompeii. Visitors to the site can enjoy views ancient three storey apartment blocks and pottery warehouses, and one can even walk shoulder to shoulder with these buildings along the prehistoric streets. Seeing the remarkable finds from this site requires a short trip into the island’s main town of Fira. In fact, there are two archaeological museums in the town, one devoted to prehistoric Akrotiri, and the other to historic period Thira. One will always be open for you to explore — the prehistoric museum is shut on Tuesdays, while the archaeological museum is shut on Mondays! Highlights from the Akrotiri museum include the vivid wall paintings which once adorned the apartment walls…and, of course, the small golden goat at the end of the gallery is a must-see!!
That’s all folks! My island trips are now done, and I’m heading back to Athens to write up various bits and pieces.I hope these blog posts have been informative and at least a little bit entertaining! If you want any more information on any of the sites mentioned in the blogs or are planning your own Aegean Odyssey, then please feel free to get in touch. Καλό ταξίδι!
res gerendae 